Would like your watch reviewed? Contact me for details!


Monday, January 31, 2011

NEW - Hanhart Primus Chrono Diver


Primus Diver

In the past, Hanhart supplied the Navy with chronographs, including the single-button "Calibre 40", and stopwatches. Today naval officers, leisure sailors and divers wear wristwatches or use stopwatches from Hanhart both on and under the water. The striking fluted bezel with inlaid red marking of the Primus Diver is reminiscent of the design of the watch manufacturer's legendary chronographs and is realised as a concave, unidirectional rotating bezel featuring a scale for calculating the dive time. It can be adjusted to an anticlockwise direction and has a detent set in steps of a minute.

Technical details
HAN38 modified automatic chronograph movement (bicompax), based on the Valjoux 7750 calibre; 28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz; 25 jewels; black PVD-coated rotor with a skeletonised, incised Hanhart logo; power reserve of min. 42 hours
Functions: Small seconds at 9 o'clock, 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, date display at 6 o'clock
Case: Stainless steel; anodised aluminium red button; fluted, concave, unidirectional rotating bezel with inlaid red marking; convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire glass; screwed-down, internally anti-reflective sapphire glass case back; screw-in crown; flexible lugs (angle of 45°-50°); diameter 44 mm, height 15 mm; water-resistance to 10 atm/100 m
Dial: Blue; with Super-LumiNova®-coated, luminous Arabic numerals, index marks, hands and yellow auxiliary dials for small seconds and 30-minute counter
Strap: Vulcanised rubber with moulded Hanhart logo, non-allergenic; folding clasp with inlaid red marking (anodised aluminium) made from stainless steel

As 1st reported by Jorge on TZ:

Jorge's POST


Friday, January 28, 2011

1st BRONZE Hellson Sharkdiver in the Wild!

IMPRESSIVE stuff Peter, Keep it up!!!

SNEAK PEAK - Ball Stormchaser II

Looks like one of Ball's Asian distributors jumped the gun... COOL!


NEW - Graham Chronofighter Fortress

Full Press-Release:

Graham Fortress P-R


NEW - Edox Iceman 1 L.E.

All the details:

Edox on James List


NEW - AP RO Offshore Auto Tourbillon Chrono

In order to grasp the essence of the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph, you need to pick up the watch with your eyes closed and only open them after turning it over. Housed within a case that strongly hints at its innate sturdiness, protected by a sapphire crystal and a solid back secured by eight polished steel screws, a true masterpiece is revealed: the new selfwinding Calibre 2897, equipped with a tourbillon and a chronograph. A set of 335 parts on which the manually adjusted, corrected, bevelled and decorated surfaces create a shimmering play on light and shade. The automatic winding is ensured by a peripheral oscillating weight, while its chronograph is equipped with a column wheel and its tourbillon optimises its rating precision. The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph is in harmony with the finest watchmaking traditions, and yet turning it over reveals an eminently contemporary spirit. It displays a sophisticated and powerful design, that of the legendary Royal Oak Offshore collection, supported by a combination of black-coloured materials: forged carbon for the case middle, ceramic for the bezel and rubber for the strap. A watch with two faces, an encounter between contrasts or a watchmaking union of opposites, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph is an amazing blend of two worlds.

A 100% in-house made movement
Calibre 2897 is a selfwinding movement entirely developed and produced by Audemars Piguet. It combines a tourbillon and a column-wheel chronograph. Its architecture is a tribute to the past. The rounded cut-out of the bridges, the S-shaped lever, the curves of the minutes-counter bridge and the characteristic toothing of the column wheel: everything about this mechanism displays consummate artistry, to the point of making us almost forget the functional aspect.

The finishing of the various parts is also loyal to the grand traditions of Fine Watchmaking. Several surfaces shine with a perfect polish, known as a mirror or specular polish, which catches the light and results in exceptional optical effects achieved by various polishing operations involving a succession of files, buffs, burnishers and various abrasives. On all the interior and external corners, the sharp edges between the surface and the flanks are cut down to form polished bevels. This is the meticulous operation known as bevelling or chamfering, and which is entirely performed by hand on all parts. The bridges and mainplate are rhodiumed, bevelled, circular-grained, beadblasted and hand-drawn with file strokes. After each of the parts is finished and decorated, the watchmaker performs a first “trial” assembly in order to set them into motion. Everything is then dismantled and each part is meticulously cleaned, before proceeding to final assembly and casing up. It takes around 15 days to produce a finished movement, which is then subjected to a number of different tests.

The peripheral oscillating weight, an efficient and elegant solution
Automatic winding is ensured by a peripheral oscillating weight in 950 platinum, mounted on ball bearings. This choice serves to shift the weight of the rotor to the outer edge of the movement, thereby improving winding speed. A recess has been made in the case middle so as to ensure that this 180° oscillating weight can rotate a full 360°. It is also worth specifying that this large 180° segment is optimally sized to enhance the efficiency of the automatic winding. Moreover, because of its position on the periphery of the movement, it does not increase the overall thickness, which enables the movement to maintain a slimmer profile. It also offers the additional aesthetic advantage of entirely freeing up the reverse side of the movement and thus providing full views of the mechanism, and particularly its column wheel, through the transparent back of the watch.

The tourbillon, the most entrancing of all horological complications
Very few watch brands are capable of making their own tourbilllons. An acknowledged member of this select circle, the Manufacture Audemars Piguet has become a master in the art of defying the effects gravity and has over 16 movements equipped with a tourbillon. In 1986, it was already the first brand to offer an ultra-thin selfwinding tourbillon wristwatch.

Representing watchmakers’ response to the laws of gravity, this invention serves to cancel out the disturbing effects of gravity on the movement’s most sensitive organs – the balance and spring assembly and the escapement – and to thereby achieve enhanced timing precision. To compensate for these disturbances, these organs are housed within a tiny feather-light mobile carriage that spins on its axis once a minute.
The tourbillon with its blackened titanium bridge is visible through a dial cut-out at 6 o’clock. Setting this tourbillon into motion represents a formidable technical challenge. A weight of just 0.017 grams serves to balance the carriage weighing a mere 0.45 g. Meanwhile, in terms of the lightness of the regulating organs themselves, the escapement weighs just 0.12 g. The experienced watchmaker devotes almost three days to assembling its 85 parts, while the overall movement takes over 15 days.

The chronograph, a constantly perfected mechanism
Calibre 2897 reveal its column wheel, an attribute of the finest mechanical movements and which serves to coordinate the start, stop and reset phases. An ingenious coupling yoke principle has been developed in order to avoid the chronograph hand jerking when the timing begins, a characteristic flaw of this type of mechanism. The development engineers have added a hook to the coupling yoke which thereby displays enhanced shock resistance when the chronograph is activated. The meticulous assembly and adjustment operations are entirely performed by hand and require particular care. The activation of the chronograph functions is thus carried out progressively in order to enable gentle and accurate tactile perception.

The inimitable design of the Royal Oak Offshore collection
The name Royal Oak Offshore has become a watchmaking legend synonymous with sporty masculinity. Once again, connoisseurs will delight in recognising the octagonal bezel punctuated by its eight trademark polished steel hexagonal screws. The bezel is reinforced by the choice of black ceramics and by its finishing, in which the vertical satin-brushing of the surface makes a powerful contrast with the polished chamfers in order to sharp edges and clean-cut angles. The characteristically imposing and noble case middle is made from forged carbon. While ceramics is known for its resistance and hardness, forged carbon is extremely light. This material widely used in the field of aeronautics was introduced by Audemars Piguet into the world of fine watchmaking. The technical nature of the details on the right side of the case further accentuate the case middle. The pushpieceguards are not part of the case but consist of two titanium parts secured to the case by four visible screws. The pushpieces themselves are composed of two parts: a base and a top that serves as a contact surface. Finally, the dial features the signature “Méga Tapisserie” motif symbolising this collection, composed of straight parallel lines and taut shapes. Its 6 o’clock opening serves to reveal the tourbillon. Even the grooved rubber strap complies with the established Royal Oak Offshore codes.


Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph

Reference : 26550AU.OO.A002CA.01

Forged carbon case; bezel, crown and pushpieces in black ceramics; pushpiece-guards and fastening studs in titanium

Selfwinding Calibre 2897 with tourbillon and column-wheel chronograph
Total diameter: (15½ lignes)
Casing diameter: 31.40 mm
Thickness: 7.75 mm
34 jewels
335 parts
65-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Variable-inertia balance with screws and balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
Finishing: all parts finely hand decorated; bridges and mainplate rhodiumed, circular-grained, beadblasted and hand-drawn with file strokes; polished angles, bevelled screw rims and slots
Peripheral oscillating weight in circular satin-brushed 950 platinum

Diameter : 44 mm
Thickness : 14 mm
Sapphire crystal caseback with Royal Oak Offshore engraving

Black with exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” motif, silver-toned counters. Applied and facetted white gold hour-markers with luminescent coating. Black flange. White gold facetted hour and minute hands with luminescent coating.

Black rubber, adorned with two grooves. Titanium pin buckle.

Hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter (at 3 o’clock)
Tachometric scale on the flange

Audemars Piguet

Thursday, January 20, 2011

NEW - Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed L.E.

“The most intriguing part of the SpidoSpeed
is what is missing from it…”
Morten Linde

Linde Werdelin, the leading sports watches and attachable instruments manufacturer, is proud to announce the launch of a 3-Dimensional skeletonised experience, the SpidoSpeed. With a strong reference to the SpidoLite range and inspired by the racing car industry, the SpidoSpeed is Linde Werdelin’s first chronograph model. It features a new and more complex skeletonised steel case construction with weight reduction technology while always maintaining integrity of strength.

Unveiled at BaselWorld in March, the SpidoSpeed with be available in limited series A of 100 pieces and will retail at €11760. The new series will be available to order in May 2011 on LindeWerdelin.com  or from any LW authorised retailer.

For many more details, click on the following link for the FULL press-release:

Linder Werdelin SpidoSpeed (requires PDF reader)

Wednesday, January 19, 2011


This limited edition diver watch was designed exclusively in cooperation with and for the members of the Uhrforum.  Swiss Made - 2 years warranty................... www.uhr.forum.de

Technical DetailsType: TIEFSEE GMT 100 ATM black
Limited Edition 111 pcs.
Item no.: S0102

ETA 2893-2 automatic Swiss Made

hour and minute hands with Superluminova
central second hand
date at 6 o'clock
screw-down crown at 4 o'clock
automatic helium escape valve in blue at 2 o'clock

Case: stainless steel matt , black.. DLC
Back: stainless steel beed-blasted, engraved
Diameter: 45 mm
height: 14 mm
Weight: 195 g
Dial: black ..
Crystal: flat sapphire, 5 mm, with two layers of anti-reflecting coating
Bezel: black DLC, uni-directional / 120 clicks
Indices: Superluminova white, blue, BGW 9
Lug width: 24 mm
WaterRes: 1000 m according to DIN
Strap: black stainless steel bracelet, dlc coated

Accessoiresblack pouch made of buffalo leather with blue stitching closed by a pre-v pin buckle black DLC coated with Steinhart brand
rubber/leather strap black 24x24 mm with blue stitching
2th Buckle 24x24mm black DLC with Logo..


Friday, January 14, 2011

NEW - Breitling Chronomat 01 LE


Breitling introduces its flagship Chronomat 01 model in a limited series endowed with exclusive finishing and a transparent caseback providing a fascinating view of the 100% in-house made chronograph caliber. A close-up look at elegance and top-flightperformances. First introduced in the spring of 2009, the Chronomat 01 was the first Breitling watch to house Caliber 01, a chronograph movement entirely developed and produced in the brand’s workshops.

The leading model in the Breitling collections, this instrument is distinguished by the powerful character of its case, its bezel engraved with original numerals, and its distinctive blend of strength and elegance. Available in a number of different versions, it has established itself as the new benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs – and indeedas the ultimate chronograph.

For devotees of rare and exclusive timepieces, Breitling now offers this iconic model in limited series of 2,000 in steel and 200 in rose gold, all bearing the individual number engraved at 9 o’clock on the case middle. The strong and unique design of the case, bezel and bracelet is highlighted by subtle contrasted finishing – satin-brushed on the top and polished on the sides. The black dial is adorned with applied hour-markers.

Contrary to the standard Chronomat 01 models, equipped with solid steel or gold casebacks, the Chronomat 01 Limited Edition features a transparent sapphire crystal caseback providing optimal views of the in-house made chronograph movement. An exceptional glimpse of this high performance motor boasting a column-wheel, an entirely original architectural design, and assembled according to a revolutionary industrial process.



Breitling Caliber 01, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 47 jewels. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar.

Steel or 18K rose gold. Water-resistant to 200 m/20 bars (100 m/10 bars for the gold model). Screw-locked crown and safety pushpieces. Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Transparent sapphire crystal caseback. Diameter: 43.50 mm. Dial: Onyx Black.

Pilot in steel or rose gold.


Battle of the SM1000 homages! Crepas vs. Helson

As much as I truly love the Helson Sharkmaster...

I think I prefer the Crepas LeGrand! WOW!!!

Thanks to Amuro on WUS' Dive Watch Forum, you can follow this link to see all his FANTASTIC comparison pictures:

Cepas vs. Helson on WUS

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

1st prototype picture of the Halios Laguna!

For more details, do a search for Halios Laguna on my BLOG, you should find details about the case back contest they were holding.


Monday, January 3, 2011

NEW - glimpse at Kremke's next diver!

Of all the Fricker dive watches that have come and gone since the Dreadnought, the Kremke Subzilla has been one of my very favorites. Here is a quick glimpse at Ian's next dive watch project:

A bit about it, from the man himself:

"Sorry to be a tease with the pic, just still in the process of refining the design elements such as handset and dial etc. I've worked very hard on the design for this one, starting from the ground up and refining it over the last 6-8 months. No use of catalog parts for this one, will be completely original and unique to our company.  Hoping to have the design wrapped up over the next few weeks and promise to post the pics here."

Preliminary Specs:
  • Stainless Steel 316L.
  • Brushed and polished surfaces.
  • Undecided, though keeping it Swiss Made. Possibly Soprod, ETA or Sellita.
  • Hours, Minutes, Seconds. Quick set Date.
  • 44 mm Diameter bezel end to bezel end
  • 53 mm lug end to lug end
  • 22 mm lug width (width between lugs / strap width)
  • 16 mm height overall
  • Extra thick Sapphire (scratch-proof), double-domed, anti-reflective coating (inside only)
  • Stainless steel, screw-locked @ 4 o'clock position.
  • 60-clicks, rotating, unidirectional (counter-clockwise)
  • bezel with engraved elapsed time scale in black and orange type.
  • Stainless steel, engraved and screw locked with double O-rings.
  • Individually numbered.
  • Integrated Rubber Strap and Signed Buckle.
  • Water Resistant 500 meters; pressure-proof to 50 atmospheres.

Image and details from the following thread:

New Kremke on Dive Watch Connection

Looks like your onto something Ian, please keep us posted and God Speed!!!